Cedar Lodge, Lake Almanor

Thank you Cedar Lodge, for saving Lake Almanor for us! After leaving that other place, we were lucky to find availability in a full hookup campground with brand new electrical panels in a perfect location. The owners, Oliver and Megann, and the camp host, Judy, could not have been more welcoming to us. This whole area burned down in the Dixie Fire, but they have been rebuilding ever since. They have a cute little hotel and a small one-loop RV campground, close to the intersection of highways 36 and 89. They have planted trees that will one day shade the whole area. They have laid new gravel and have brand new picnic tables in each site. They are a tale of resilience amidst a landscape of hardship. Within view of the campground, a hawk has made a nest atop a standing dead tree, an appropriate symbol for the ‘life finds a way’ spirit here.

There was a bike trail Richard was interested in checking out and Oliver drove him along a quasi-paved road to show him how to get there. Seriously great people. We got our bikes out in the afternoon to go explore the route. The road is, for some reason, colored a rusty red, passable on a bike, but not without lots of potholes and short sections of packed dirt. Where it finally ceases to be paved, we chose to hop onto nearby Highway 89 for .8 miles until we got to the crossroad that leads to the west end of the bike trail. 89 is not a bad road to bike, especially for such a short distance. There is a shoulder and it’s not too trafficky.

The red road made a really profound impression on Richard. He calls it ‘trauma bonding’ and I get why. The road is rough, so you feel the physicality of traversing it in your body. You have to give your full attention to where you are, scanning for larger rocks or potholes as you make your way along. It’s an exercise in being fully present. Something about the color, set against the background of standing dead trees and abandoned trucks and machinery, creates an otherworldly feel. And yet, the journey is pleasant. There was a cool breeze coming off the lake, with Lassen standing tall and striking to the west. Even as the bumpy surface of the pavement vibrated beneath us, we had all the tools we needed to navigate the passage. It was a physical manifestation of the feeling of making our way, together, through hard times. Even the presence of the active volcano peak, looming always on the horizon, a reminder of the ephemeral nature of this expedition through life, provides an ominous reminder to enjoy what is before you. Richard used the word ‘romantic’ to describe the road, and later said that wasn’t quite the word. But I think it’s fitting.

After four miles on the red road and short stint on the highway, we came to the unpaved turn off to catch the trail head. The Lake Almanor Recreation Trail is a fully paved multi-use path that runs about ten miles along the southern side of the lake. It weaves its way along the water, through campgrounds, and up into low hills, until it reaches the Canyon Dam boat launch at the southeastern end. We didn’t explore the whole thing on that day, but we got far enough down it that we knew what we wanted to do the following day.

For all my ambivalence about facebook, one thing I am always grateful for is how it helps connect you with friends. When I posted shots from our stay at McArthur Burney, a longtime (like since before marriage and kids) friend said something about being in Chester. Didi and her husband Jerry were staying at (as she hilariously puts it) the “optimistically named” Lake Almanor Resort, just across the lake from us. Because they are super cool people, living the dream in life, they have a jet ski and suggested we meet for lunch at a place in Almanor. We could bike there, they could jet ski over there, like they are some kind of James Bond movie couple. It was a date.

We biked the entirety of the trail, stopping along the way to check out the Plumas Pines Resort and Bar, as well as Carol’s Prattville Cafe. Both are super fun places to stop for lunch or breakfast. There’s a little store at Plumas Pines and the cafe is seriously popular for lunch. Didi and Jerry got us a spot on the wait list and we joined them on the grass, listening to excellent live music and watching kids blow bubbles and play on a slip n slide. We shared our story about the authoritarian enabling former campground, and they shared stories about the “irrational inflatables” obnoxiously on display at their resort. I love that term and warned Didi I’d be using it in the blog. So great to catch up!

Jerry then suggested we pass the time by taking a spin on their jet ski. You guys. This old lady has not been on a jet ski in her life. I have been on a motorcycle like once, maybe twice, as a teenager. Richard didn’t even have to think about his answer, but I said what the hell and climbed aboard. Jerry did an outstanding job of making it exhilarating, but not too terrifying. I think he said we were going about 25 mph, which I later learned is way faster than he goes with Didi. I very much appreciated that he waited until after we were back safe on the dock to share the story of how he once flipped the thing, and had to swim to it while it was going in circles all by itself. It was like the most fun thing I’ve done in a long time. And yet, there is zero danger that I am ever going to try talking Richard into buying a jet ski. What an awesome day!

Honestly, if not for the unexpected hospitality at Cedar Lodge, we would have left Lake Almanor with a negative impression. Instead, we got to enjoy one of the highlights of the trip and I got to have an unforgettable experience on the lake and reconnect with dear friends. The discovery of the Lake Almanor Recreation Trail was a definite score and something we would love to do again in the future. The little town of Chester is cute, with just enough stores and services to satisfy any needs. It is definitely noted for return trips, and we would love to stay at Cedar Lodge again. The other campground that looked really nice was the PG&E Rocky Point campground. There are no hookups there, so in the heat it might be tough, but it is also entirely in the woodsy shade. Great save!

Total miles from Manzanita Lake, with one nighter at other place: 67.0, 18.9 mpg. Full hookups. Brand new electrical panels. Excellent wifi that can be hit from inside the trailer. Much better cell service for both of us than at other place. Newly planted trees will provide nice shade when they get big. Brand new picnic tables and fresh gravel. Super helpful owner and camp host. Good proximity to Chester.